this will change ur paradigm in car audio
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  1. #1
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    this will change ur paradigm in car audio

    boss.... gw rasa harus share yg ini ama anak2 modcom... minta ijinnya ya... kalo ga boleh kasi tau gw ^^
    ceritanya ini adalah penggalan kisah dari seorang yang pasang audio.... untuk ringkasnya gw cut saja jadi sedikit seperti ini... coz this is what people should do and they suppose to buy when they wanna play around car audio ^^

    Cars are different than living rooms in two ways where stereo is concerned. The first is that the noise floor (noise around you) is bass heavy and fairly high, around 80db. A living room can reach a noise floor as low as 40 dB in the evenings. This means car stereos must have more power than home stereos just to sound like home stereos. The second is that rooms effect dramatically how the frequency response will balance out. A car is so small that we're not sure if we should treat it like a room or another box. When you put a box inside of another larger box, an interesting thing happens. The low bass is amplified. This is referred to as "cabin gain". So it should be easier to get bass in a car then in a living room you ask? If you consider only the two different types of rooms, yes.

    AMPS
    We will start with amplifiers since they are the most common ingredient found in after market car stereos. Amplifiers for cars all share the following similarities: They all run on 12 volts DC and they all amplify a single and send it to your speakers. 90% of all car amplifiers will put out more power and or less distortion when the car is running. The reason for this is because your car's alternator raises the voltage from 12 VDC to 13.8 VDC. This concludes the similarities between car amplifiers. Amplifiers range in size from 12 watts per channel to around 200 watts. Smaller amplifiers are often called "Power Boosters", some even have equalizers built in. Larger amplifiers are often referred to as "Big Amps", although you probably could have got that one.

    Amplifiers can be divided into two main groups and they are Group 1 - DECENT and Group 2 - CRAPPY. What is it that decides which is which? Is it size? No. Is it price? No. Is it how much power it claims to have? No. Ahhh, is it the color? ...No. In fact it can be difficult if not impossible to tell if you don't know ahead of time. The answer is: How it is marketed.

    WATTS
    Amplifiers that are mass marketed through large electronics supermarkets, and mail order catalogues are designed to make their manufactures and dealers money, not to necessarily sound good. In this market price is what sells product, and the reason for that is simple enough. If your product sits on a shelf in a mass merchants store next to 4 or 5 other products just like it, what is going to make the customer choose yours? What you print on the box. Since there are no qualified salespeople to help you choose the right one, you are left to read each box carefully and decide. The combination of what you read and the asking price are the determining factors. A crappy amp and a decent amp are rarely sold in the same place and here is an example of why. A crappy amp and a decent amp both sit on a shelf side by side. Both amps are the same physical size. The crappy amp has the following specs printed on the box:

    200WATTS X 200WATTS MAX POWER Frequency Response 20-20K
    Not more than .7% total harmonic distortion @ 1 watt both channels driven. REGULAR EVERYDAY LOW PRICE $179.00 NOW $99.95 with 90 day warranty.

    The decent amp has the following specs printed on the box:

    40WATTS X 40WATTS RMS From 20 - 20K @ .07% THD. $249.00

    Now judging from this information you would choose the crappy amp. It has more power (way more power) and cost less, plus it's on sale. FRED fell into this trap too, and so do about 500 people every day just in this city. The truth is that the bottom amp, the decent one, is FAR better than the crappy amp. It has FAR more power, and the difference in sound quality cannot even be compared. How can this be you wonder? Both manufactures have listed specifications for their amplifiers that are within the boundaries of the law. One has stretched it to the limits of the law, and one has slightly under rated theirs. This is the difference between the two types of amplifiers. It is easy to see why the better of the two products are not sold in mass merchandise marts, and why the others are not sold in specialty shops. A simple guideline to remember is the "DOLLAR PER WATT" theory. A decent amplifier should cost MORE than one dollar per watt. If you find an amplifier like the one in the sample above, that is less than a dollar per watt, don't buy it. The sample above calculates out to 25 cents per watt. The irony of this is that the second amp is actually LESS money per watt than the first. If you take the REAL watts that each puts out the figures are like this: First amp total REAL watts is 50. That's $2.00 per watt. The second amp total REAL watts is 160. That's a $1.55 per watt.

    RATINGS
    For those of you who demand more of an explanation on why ratings vary so much, the law does not require enough information to be printed on the products rating. And what information the law does require most people don't understand anyway. The first of the two amplifiers was rated under NON-REAL conditions in a test lab connected to a "dummy load" rather than a real speaker. In the lab, under ideal conditions, the amplifier was tested to have 50 watts. Then they found if they use a tone rather than music the power doubled, easy to understand since the amp is only playing one note instead of combinations of 20,000 notes. Then they discovered that if they raise the voltage to 15 or 16 volts the power doubled again. Then they discovered that if you let the amp sit with no signal going to it, and then burst it with one note for a millisecond, the peak (MAX) measured higher still! Now the power supply and most of the other parts in the amplifier are getting so hot that the amp is starting to smell, so they found out that if you spray freon on the amplifier and keep it cold, the voltage could be increased to 19 volts before smoke rolls out of it. So that's what they so, and however high the power meter says just before the amp smokes is what they print on the box. The second of the two amplifiers was rated under simulated worst case conditions with low voltage (12 VDC) across the entire musical spectrum with no distortion. A rating that will be accurate for the life of the amplifier even if it is never shut off. That's the difference.

    FANCY WIRE
    So does all this fancy 1.00 per foot speaker wire make a difference? Yes and No. Yes it makes a difference, and No, you probably won't hear it. On a audiophile grade system you can hear a difference and the investment in premium wire is usually worth it. In a car, however, the noise floor will mask any of the additional detail gained from the use of fancy wire. And, most car stereos, unless someone like myself does it, aren't up to par enough to benefit from it.

    You can think of fancy wire like buying fancy high performance spark plugs for your car. Only your car has worn valves which leak oil down onto the plugs and keep them about half fouled out. You car runs exactly the same as it did with the stock plugs. Point being, if your just throwing together an inexpensive car stereo you wont hear any difference from that 5 foot piece of monster size wire you hooked to your sub woofer.

    Why is there so many sizes and types of wire available? Because people are buying it. Basic speaker wire consists of between 12 and 16 gauge stranded copper. It is always "Polarized" or labeled for plus and minus. The next step up from this would be oxygen free copper wire, with more strands. When an amplifier is hooked to a speaker via a piece of speaker wire, the speaker AND the wire become the load. Long lengths of thin wire can actually add resistance to a speaker and increase the load to the amplifier. This is not good. The longer the distance between the amplifier and speaker, the bigger the wire.

    Usually it is hard to get a speaker very far away from an amplifier in a car, which is why 12 gauge wire is acceptable for any car stereo system. High performance speaker cable will have more strands than basic speaker wire, which means it will have less resistance. If you use a high performance speaker wire, it is acceptable to use 14 gauge throughout. 14 gauge wire is smaller than 12 gauge. The numbering system is backwards.

    In a high end stereo system, high performance cable sounds better for a couple reasons. The increased number of strands in the wire decrease the resistance and allow more current to hit the speaker. The audible difference is a tighter, stronger bass. The insulation that is found in most high performance cable is also different. A typical material used is Teflon. When you place an insulator directly on a conductor, such as wire, the magnetic fields created as the voltages change create capacitance. The capacitance or interaction between the conductor and insulator will have a audible effect found in the higher frequencies. The audible effect is said to add harshness to the music. High performance speaker wire and cable minimize this effect.

    The same principle applies to patch cords (RCA CABLES) as well. Primarily due to the added shielding, premium patch cords are almost always an audible improvement in a car stereo system. The higher quality means better connectors, and stronger thicker jackets. I recommend that no one uses the very cheapest patch cords available. One pull and the wire inside stretches where you can't see it and you're stereo will intermittently sound bad from that point on. The difference between a 6' generic patch cable at 5.00, and a high performance cable at 25.00 is money well spent.

    FANCY SPEAKERS
    When purchasing car speakers i.e. 6x9's, door and dash speakers, there are two options. One is to use speakers designed to replace the original factory speakers in the factory locations. The second is to use separates, and have them custom installed in your doors, dash, or where ever needed. The later will not necessarily sound better, because it relies completely on who does the custom install, and how they do it.

    The most common difference between a factory car speaker and an after market one is that the after market speaker will usually have a separate tweeter. This is referred to as a two-way speaker. There are 3 and even 4 way speakers available also, but whether they sound better than a two way depends on your ears, and personal taste. Just remember that MORE is not BETTER in audio, its just more complicated. I personally lean towards a two way speaker because I like the sound better.

    The point I want to make about fancy speakers is that while they are great and everything they do not automatically improve the sound quality. The way they are installed, particularly in a custom job, is in my opinion responsible for 75% of the sound quality that they will produce. A PROPERLY INSTALLED FACTORY OR INEXPENSIVE SPEAKER will ALWAYS sound better, distort less, and get louder than an IMPROPERLY INSTALLED 200.00 after market model. That is the real secret to good sound, so place your emphasis on getting a speaker that fits properly and have it installed properly.

    SUB WOOFERS
    At this time, lets apply the same general gist of what I said about fancy speakers, and add that BIGGER IS NOT USUALLY BETTER. I consistently get MORE bass IN THE CAR with one ten inch (properly installed) sub woofer than the car came in with when it had two fifteen's in a huge box. Implementation accounts for 95% of the bass a woofer delivers, not the woofer itself.

    HEAD UNITS
    A head unit is the industry nick name for a AM/FM Stereo cassette deck or CD player. It is possible to obtain reasonable to very good sound from the FM section of most head units. Typical Frequency Response on FM is 30Hz to 16KHz or so. What makes a head unit start costing money is the cassette deck portion of it. There are only a few ways to make an FM tuner, but there are dozens of gadgets and features in cassette deck mechanisms. The most crucial to the sound quality is the cassette head. This is commonly the most expensive part of any cassette deck mechanism. In addition to sound quality, a cassette head is also responsible for the frequency response when you listen to taps. The inexpensive decks only go down to 50 Hz, so there is NO deep bass at all. Mid priced cassette head units will usually go down to 30Hz which is adequate for good bass response in a car. Some high priced cassette decks go down to 20 Hz. Most store bought cassette tapes do not have the fidelity to take advantage of the high priced decks. If, however, you properly record CD or LP's onto high quality metal cassette tapes, you probably will be pleased to know your tape deck sounds like a CD player.

    The best value sonicially and in every other aspect is the in-dash CD player. Even an inexpensive model which cost less than a mid priced cassette deck, will sound superior. It's almost hard to get real carried away on a sub woofer design unless you have a CD player. In general a CD player will have LOWER and TIGHTER bass than a cassette deck. That's what you want. It has always been easier for me to get great performance from a sub woofer when the source is a CD player.

    CROSSOVERS
    Generally a confusing topic that complicates the buying experience, but a requirement in all good car stereo systems. No matter what you will have a crossover network as part of your stereo, the question will be what kind, and where will it be. Starting with what kind, there are two main types, active and passive. Finishing with where they go, depends on what type. Active crossovers may be found in the circuit between the head unit and the amplifier, and is sometimes located in the amplifier itself. Passive crossovers may be found in the circuit between the amplifier and the speakers. Passive crossovers must be made from large heavy duty parts to accommodate the power that goes through them. For this reason they can be expensive (if properly designed) and since they add resistance to the speaker at selected frequencies, heat is generated, and some power is lost. Active crossovers are the opposite in that respect, as they consist of a few circuit chips, and create no heat.

    If you intend to design you car stereo using only one two channel amplifier to run everything (sub woofer included), you will have to use passive crossovers.

    If you use a multi-channel amplifier with built in crossover(s), you will not need any passive crossovers.

    If you intend to run two or more amplifiers, you will have the option of running either active or passive crossovers or both.

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  3. #2
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    jadi paradigma apa yang dirubah bos..?
    Do you really love music....
    bigfach@yahoo.com.au

  4. #3
    Brigadir Jendral
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    ringkasnya?

  5. #4
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    males ahhhh bacanya pusing :smt017 :smt017 :smt017 :smt017

  6. #5
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    paradigma pake barang yang asal2an plus semau gue aja sebagai konsumen ^^ karena installer juga butuh penyesuaian terhadap barang yang akan dinaikin ke mobil... mulai dari hu sampai ke speaker... semuanya berhubungan... ga bilang mau pake hu F1 tp speakernya metalic powernya audiophile, trus subnya scanspeak, kabel pake kabel 10rb / meter aja deh.... ada yang harus disepadankan untuk sebuah sistem ^^ mustinya gw kasih crita lengkapnya ya

  7. #6
    Letnan Kolonel
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    Nah terus perubahan nya dimana bro...??

  8. #7
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    ini sech udah murni DAGANG PARADIGMANYA.... klo belanja makan mah mau makan bebek maunya di raja bebek, klo d ajak makan ke nasi uduk pinggiran kaga mau padahal sama ada daging bebek nya......

    intinya pemilihan perangkat yang tepat bukan bos....? ngak perlu yang mahal kan?

    masalah kabel apa lagi ngak perlu ampe yang ratusan rebu per meter kan? buat konsumen itu kurang manfaat kayanya bos....(ingat konsumen cuma ada 5-10% sisanya 95-90% konsumen adalah.... tau sendiri bos ngak usah kita sebut d sini hehehehe)
    tapi klo buat toko kayanya sangat bermanfat hehehehehe(punten)
    kabel spker 10rb/mtr juga klo cocok ama kebutuhan arus watt buat drive speaker suara akan sama baik malah lebih baik dari pada yang per meter 100rb tapi ukuran kebesaran misal buat drive tweter, atau kekecilan buat drive mid....
    kadang buat kabel.... sebagian besar klo mau jujur cuma sugesti doang.... sugesti akan merk dan harga.....

    mending budget kabel buat perangkat d bagusin atau klo ngak buat mijet.....

    maap... ini hanya pendapat saja.... mohon koreksi klo ada salah.....

  9. #8
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    masalah power ampli.... repot juga.... tau sendiri sekarang udah banyak bikinan/manufaktur mana iya kan.....

    ini paradigma dagang juga neh..... jadi klo mau beli ampli dan yang laen nya.... kadang kita cari merk" amrik, eropa(yang mana sudah 80% lebih merk" branded juga manufaktur d negri "panda" )

    jadi napa tidak cari barang berkualitas dan murah bisa d buktikan dan sesuai dengan telinga kita ?
    sekarang lebih baik beli suara dari pada beli merk.... buat apa beli spker harga 2,5 juta-an karena branded terkenal... klo ada speaker yang cuma 1,88jt suara mendekati? malah setara?

    telinga kita telinga indonesia..... bukan telinga mr amrik atau mr. eropa..... morfologi bentuk sudah berbeda.... selera sudah pasti berbeda.... jadi.....?

    the truth is out there.... hehehehehe

    mohon koreksi klo ada salah.....

  10. #9
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    disini bukan masalah harga yaaaaa... tetapi lebih pada pemilihan barang yang tepat... ga asal2an... jadi hasil yang dicapai oleh semua pihak baik konsumen maupun installer akan menjadi sesuai dengan harapan tentunya disesuaikan dengan budget... ^^ mudah2an bermanfaat... ntar gw posting crita lengkapnya deh

  11. #10
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    sip ditunggu...tapiemang menurut gw juga semua seperlunya hehe..
    Do you really love music....
    bigfach@yahoo.com.au

 

 
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